We buy weaners at 8 weeks old from Adrian in Shillingford. Adrian is passionate about his rare breeds and the annual spring trip is a great adventure. The piglets spend a few weeks in the garden nursery before moving into the wild Horsepark Copse below the farmyard. They quickly settle to work, snuffling and rooting and making short shrift of the nettles, brambles, branches and undergrowth. They still like to sleep in the deep straw in their hut, but by day doze in sunny patches between the trees. 

Like the Angus cattle, Berkshires are known for their good temperament and useful respect for strands of electric fence. They are inquisitive, friendly and sociable beings, and Jess the dog is smitten, guarding them all daylight hours. 

The pork is hung for a week, is succulent, with enough fat for cracking crackling, but not overwhelmed. In a different galaxy of taste compared to supermarket cheap cuts once you have tasted this you won't want to go back.